The effect of wale spirality of single jersey circular knit fabrics on seam distortions

Abstract

In this article the effect of various finishing-dyeing processes on the wale spirality of single jersey circular knit fabrics and seam distortion it causes on the garment are investigated. With this aim, single jersey fabric samples were knitted on the same machine and under the same processing conditions using open-end and ring yarns having 30/1 fineness. These fabrics were separated into two sections, and finishing and dyeing processes were applied to one section in tubular form and to the other in open-width fabric form. Change in the spirality angle of dyed fabric samples and additionally seam distortions formed after washing processes on T-shirts sewn with these fabrics were measured. It was determined that there was a distortion on the side seams of T-shirts after each washing process depending on the increase in the spirality angle. Higher spirality angle is observed on the fabrics treated with open-width finishing-dyeing processes in comparison to tubular fabric form, however seam distortion degree of T-shirts sewn with these fabrics was less. This showed that fabric in open-width form is much closer to completely relaxed position with regard to tubular form. Mechanical inventions aimed to decrease the spirality angle are very dangerous. The effect of finishing - dyeing process on the wale spirality and garment properties are first time studied.