Influence of Sewing Machine Parameters on Seam Pucker

Abstract

The effect of rotational frequency of a sewing machine main shaft and pressing force on seam pucker has been studied. Seam pucker of the specimen prepared from lightweight fabric was evaluated according to the method of the measurement of the geometric characteristics of a wave generated in a seam and propagated towards the reference edge line. The pucker height and length have been measured and sharpness calculated. It is found that the pucker height increases when rotational frequency of the main shaft increases and pressing force decreases. A strong correlation exists between characteristics of seam pucker and different sewing modes. The seam pucker is closely related to fabric friction and structural properties. Different puckering of the specimens cut in the directions of warp and weft is determined by anisotropy of textiles and this fact confirms the influence of fabric properties on the investigated seam defect.