Journal Tekstil is a scientific and professional journal for textile and clothing technology, published by the Croatian Textile Engineers' Association, and has been published continuously since 1952. Initially, it operated with editorial boards from Croatia, Serbia and Slovenia, and since 1960, the editorial office has been located in Zagreb. In the first decades, the journal published 12 issues per year, while since the mid-2000s it has switched to publishing double issues. With its works, which include achievements in the textile industry, global development trends and current events in textile technology, design and clothing production, the journal significantly contributes to the development of the textile industry in Croatia and contributes to the education and affirmation of textile experts. It is included in relevant world literature sources, secondary reference publications and electronic databases. Although it is mostly published in Croatian, earlier issues contained extended summaries in English, German and French, while in more recent editions, individual works, at the request of the authors, are published in full in English.
A Study on Defining Standard Movement Sets in Sewing Using the MTM Method
There are different techniques to determine the timing of operations. Among these techniques, the Methods Time Measurement (MTM) method is used as a clear, accurate and improvable technique that increases efficiency. In standard time determination using the MTM method, all of the employee's movements are analyzed sequentially from start to finish. This makes it possible to identify unnecessary additional movements during work that slow down the work. For this reason, the MTM method is not only a method for calculating standard time, but also a great help in developing and improving methods. The aim of this study is to carry out work measurement using the MTM method and to highlight its importance for production planning. With this approach, considering the production scheme for skirts, sample studies were conducted on the application of the MTM method in lockstitch, overlock, buttonhole, button and ironing processes.
Investigation of protective clothing used against pesticides in agriculture
Pesticides are chemical mixtures that are used to destroy, control or reduce harmful organisms and they toxic to humans. Pesticides enter the body through the mouth, respiration and skin and most of them can show carcinogenic, mutagenic, allergic and irritant effects. These harms can be prevented by the protective measures to be taken by workers when using pesticides in agricultural areas. This study investigated the working conditions of greenhouse workers and the protective clothing they should wear to protect themselves from pesticides. In the first part of the study, a face-to-face questionnaire was applied to 83 people working in greenhouses in different regions were asked about their work clothing using a personal questionnaire. In the second part, disposable protective clothing of 2 different brands that are widely used in the sector, were examined. These products were compared in terms of sewing properties and model properties.As a result of the survey, it was stated that 87% of the workers in the greenhouses wear work clothes, wash their clothes in the machine, mostly every 2 days, and change the clothes when the period of use is over. 80% of them were satisfied with their work clothes, and they listed their expectations from the clothes such as protection against harmful chemicals, being suitable for the work environment, being liquid proof and being comfortable. It has been determined that it is very important to inform agricultural workers about pesticides through training programs to protect and improve their health.
The most important results of the project KK.01.1.1.04.0091 (BIOCOMPOSITES) Design of advanced composites from energy sustainable sources
Firefighters' personal protective equipment
A firefighter's workplace is characterised by a number of external influences and hazards that can endanger their health and safety. Considering the fact that it is not possible in the risk assessment for the said workplace to determine all situations that firefighters may encounter on the fire interventions, it is necessary that firefighters use the personal protective equipment as part of the protective elements. This article provides an overview of the personal protective equipment used by firefighters during fire interventions. The clothing systems for protection against heat and flame are presented together with the relevant standards and the minimum performance requirements that they must fulfil. The personal protective equipment used by firefighters during firefighting operations is also described. In addition to maximising protection for firefighters, personal protective equipment must ensure comfort and the normal performance of work activities.
clothing system for protection against heat and flame
International "green" summer school of the GreenTEX project held
Experimental Analysis of Gas Consumption Applying Indirect Heating in Fabric Drying Processes
Drying is one of the most energy-consuming process in textile processing. with energy expenditures up to 25% of the total production energy requirements. It serves to reduce the moisture content in textile products after wet processing. Energy savings in drying process using fabric stenters with indirect heating system using hot oil boiler and thermal fluid distribution system have been calculated. The heat and mass transfer by blowing heated air through the humid textile material leads to the moisture of the material being transferred to the air. The system was calculated using various system combinations to increase system efficiency and reduce fuel consumption. Applying processes using recuperation, recirculation and combination of both to increase drying efficiency could optimize drying techniques based on thermal energy. Those energy-savings also result in improvements of the production process with respect to environment. Fuel savings with indirect heating system show fuel savings over the real process of 26.06% with recirculative, 30.86% with recuperative and 41.34% with combined process.
XRD and TGA as methods for evaluation of structural damage of textiles on a macro scale during a household tumble drying process
Household textiles are exposed to washing and drying cycles over the use stage (textile care). Textiles are in contact with water, chemicals, high temperatures, and mechanical stress during both processes, affecting their appearance and usability. The laundry and drying process in a rotating drum causes thermal and mechanical stress (cyclic deformation, abrasion), which may cause damage down to the molecular scale. By using inadequate parameters, drying becomes one of the most aggressive processes during daily garment usage, resulting in changes in the physical and mechanical properties of fibres/textiles, affecting the shortening of the garment's lifespan. Having this in mind, the research carried out within the project "Low emission household tumble drying with an evaluation of damage to textile materials" focuses primarily on the identification and evaluation of changes at the molecular scale, exerted by the exposure of the respective fabrics to an increased number of wetting/drying cycles. To this end, X-ray diffraction (XRD) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), were applied to examine the alteration in crystallinity and thermal degradation profiles, respectively. The research was conducted on a wide range of fabrics, i.e., cotton, polyester, cotton/polyester blend, wool, silk, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile and viscose.
The effect of abdominal pressure stimulation on forearm blood flow volume
The level of clothing pressure affects not only the wearer’s comfort but also their health. Therefore, we examined the effect of abdominal pressure stimulation on forearm blood flow volume. Nine Japanese female subjects (average age = 22.3 ± 0.5 years) had their abdomens constricted with a 25-mm-wide band inside a belt for 2 minutes at four different pressure intensities from 2.7 hPa to 12.4 hPa. The pressure intensities were measured using the hydrostatic pressure-balanced method on their waistlines and pressure sensations were evaluated on a ratio scale. Using the ultrasound Doppler method, blood flow velocity was assessed on the subject’s right arm. Using clothing pressure with a perfect fitting feeling (5.0±1.8 to 8.3±1.8 hPa), the blood flow volume increased, while a slightly tight feeling (12.0±1.4 hPa) decreased the blood flow volume. This finding indicates that clothing pressure has a significant effect on vascular physiology.
Consequences of the use of improper clothing for premature children
The purpose of the research was to evaluate the process of dressing-undressing of two types of clothing used in a clinical hospital maternity. Twelve premature babies aged between 34-36 weeks were used in the study, while being examined by the medical staff. The premature babies were wearing two types of clothing: light clothing (body) or heavy clothing (pajamas, blouse suit and trousers). They were divided into two groups: children in the first group were dressed in ordinary clothes, and those in the second group were dressed in tailored functional products. This study is a first step in exploring the impact that two types of clothing have for the same category of prematurity group. In this context, clothing also represents a means of showing affection for the child, but at the same time it has the role of satisfying certain needs in terms of ensuring the optimal conditions for his/her care.
Influence of the synthesis method on the preparation of immortelle oil microcapsules for cosmetotextiles
Immortelle acts as an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory agent for hematomas, scars, eczema, skin infections and allergic reactions healing. Due to those benefits, immortelle essential oil was used as an active ingredient in microcapsule synthesis, while ethyl-cellulose (EC) was chosen for the wall material. Two synthesis techniques were compared: A - stirring method and B - ultrasonic method, with the aim to optimize microencapsulation process. Three different methods were used for the characterization: Dynamic light scattering (DLS) for the microcapsules in dispersed particle form; Confocal laser scanning microscope (CLSM) for synthesized microcapsules in dry state and Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) for the surface morphology of synthetized microcapsules applied to cellulose substrate (cosmetotextiles). DLS was also used to analyze zeta potential of synthetized microcapsules applied to cellulose substrate. All samples have shown the value of zeta potential within the range -37 and -47 mV, which indicates good stability of microcapsule suspension (i.e. repulsive forces prevail over attractive, thus preventing particles` aggregation) confirming good applicability for cosmetotextiles. Size of synthetized microcapsules proved to have influence on microcapsules effectiveness. In a case that active agent release rate needs to be increased the application of ultrasonic device is recommended for the synthesis, since it is resulting with smaller microcapsules of approx. 15 μm diameter which is considered as smaller size, easier for the application on textiles.
Portrait of Anne Boleyn (c. 1535) - The Analysis of The Depicted Vestments and The Attempt of a Reconstruction
The work is part of the dissertation of the same name, defended in September 2022 at the University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology. The work presents the research phases that led to the attempt to reconstruct the composition of clothing based on the portrait of Anne Boleyn, the second wife of the 16th century English King Henry VIII. The first part of the paper deals with the stylistic and clothing analysis of the portrait, while the second, experimental part of the paper presents the procedures and stages of the reconstruction leading to the final garment. In the conclusion we present the results of this remark on the necessary adjustments in the reconstruction attempts, considering the impossibility of the existence of modern tools to achieve the authenticity of the historical clothing.
Presentation of the finished product "ONLY TTF" as part of the student project "Only natural - hygienic mask dyed with natural dyes"
Construction of a tailor's mannequin customized to the female body type
The paper investigates the problem of the fit of women's clothing with regard to the specific body shape. In doing so, the tailor's mannequin is investigated as a necessary useful item in the work of every fashion designer. Through the theoretical part, the topics of the history of the tailor's mannequin, the types of female body shape, as well as the problem of determining the size of clothes are covered. Emphasis is placed on custom tailoring mannequin construction for non-standard clothing size. In the experimental part of the work, a unique tailor's mannequin adapted to the body measurements of a specific type of female body was designed and made.
The work deals with the systematic determination of clothing classification systems with corresponding definitions. This includes a general classification of clothing from an anthropological and engineering perspective. The anthropological aspect presents a classification based on fashion and anti-fashion, while the engineering aspect presents a classification based on functionality, which covers the logical types of fashion, functional clothing and high-tech clothing. This part contains both classifications and significant terminologies for individual types of clothing.
Innovative sustainable fashion materials from mushroom mycelium
Excessive and unnecessary consumption, and exploitation of goods and services, require an ever-increasing supply and production of textile and fashion products in an unsustainable manner. The textile and fashion industries are among the biggest polluters of the environment and are, therefore, increasingly turning to alternative sources for material production. The growth of the total population requires the search for new, innovative materials. For society to develop a greater positive impact on the environment and greater collective environmental awareness while meeting the entire needs of modern society at the same time, an interdisciplinary approach, collaboration between fashion designers, scientists, technologists and theorists is needed. As a result of such synergy, various innovative materials are developed and created that meet the needs of a new market and a new society, that is aware of the importance of sustainable fashion. One of such new materials is the one derived from mushrooms mycelium. Material on the border between living and non-living appears as a response to the current state of the contemporary fashion market with the emphasis placed on meeting the requirements of sustainable fashion. Due to the specific outstanding properties of innovative materials of natural origin, such as biodegradability, biocompatibility and sustainable productiontheir widespread use is predicted in the near future.
Development of student and teacher competencies through workshops and study visits
The 14th scientific and professional conference Textile Science and Economy 2022 was held
The garment industry not only produces clothing, but also technical textiles, e.g. for car interiors. In principle, the making up of car seat covers is similar to the technological processes of clothing production, but due to the specificity of the leather and the technical textiles used in the production of covers, there are significant differences. The differences are shown in the share of various machines and equipment in the process of cutting and sewing. Car seat cover production processes require different expertise, different types of professional cooperation in the technical preparation of production and technological production processes, the presence of computer technology for the preparation and management of the production process and for the management of the production process. In addition, the size of production batches, the requirements for production accuracy and the investment costs per workplace also vary. Regardless of the percentage differences mentioned above, the basics of ready-made clothing technology are very similar to those of the technological processes in clothing production, so that a clothing technician can very quickly master the basic features of making up covers for car seats.
Applicable measurement systems for determining the amount of electrostatic charge generated on textile materials
Static electricity is a phenomenon that describes the instability of an electric charge inside or on the surface of an observed object. Previously, static electricity was closely related to electrical resistivity, i.e., the electrical conductivity of the observed object. More recently, electrical resistance is no longer sufficient as a reference value, especially with the increasing use of multipurpose materials such as textiles that contain active elements that are powered by electricity. E-, smart or intelligent textiles are limited by their energy storage capacity and proximity to the nearest power source. Therefore, portable energy harvesting devices such as triboelectric generators (TEG) are used to generate electrostatic charge and convert it into usable electrical energy. The need for further analysis of the electrical properties of textile materials has led to several research papers observing the voltage and capacitance values induced by contact or non-contact electrification of textile materials. From the numerous investigations, a few reference examples were selected in which the electrification of materials was performed by contact or non-contact and with different measurement setups to determine the electrostatic charge.
Development of corset collection inspired by the influence of waist shape in the 20th century
This paper presents a historical overview of the development and characteristics of women's corsets, and investigates in more detail and presents the change and application of corsets during the 20th century. The influences of various silhouettes and waist shapes on the construction of corsets are additionally processed, and through the modeling of author's own collection of corsets inspired by the 20th century, the sociological influence of corsets on the body and the use of corsets in body shaping function is presented. The collection is presented through several models adapted to more modern trends and the final model was made according to the author's own measurements.
Introduction of professional practice to connect theoretical knowledge and practical skills
Moisture management of sportswear materials
Materials used in the sportswear production should be able to maintain heat balance and have adequate moisture management to respond to intense sweating during sports activity. Previous studies have shown that a professional football player sweats 2193 +/- 365 ml during a game. The distribution and absorption of liquid on the textile surface depend on the intermolecular interactions. Since the next-to-skin materials used in sportswear are mainly knitted structures, the inter-and intra- yarn porosity plays a key role in moisture management. This paper focuses on the study of materials used for professional football sportswear from a moisture management perspective and discusses the influence of porosity.
The 14th Scientific-Professional Symposium Textile science and economy - The transfer of innovations to the economy